Wool Socks for Summer?


This morning was four hours or so of cranking socks, making two pairs and the mate to another that was knit last night. They are wool and wool/nylon blend two-ply yarns, using three strands, one each of three colors. I am now building up a supply of socks to place at one or two galleries, as well as open studio days, the art tour, and one or two art shows.

Those along with another pair knit yesterday gives me four pairs waiting to have the toes closed. I’m on my way upstairs now to work on them. While removing the scrap yarn from the top of one sock, I found a loop/knot, so I do need to knit a replacement in the morning.

While cranking socks last night, I left the outdoor light on so I could watch the mix of snow and rain that was coming down. This morning I woke to a winter wonderland and the snow has continued all day. The area weatherman, this morning, was predicting another 6-10″ by tomorrow morning. This is likely our last big snow of the season and the northwoods needs it badly as it has been so dry here. So, while knitting socks or out driving, I’ve been enjoying the beauty around me.

Drawcord Warp is Beamed!

A few days ago, I had made the drawcord warp in four sections, placed the sections on the rod that fits inside the top beam, and began to spread the sections into the raddle. I discovered that although I had done my warp calculations correctly, my thinking of groups in the raddle did not match, so I had to move a couple threads every other section to their proper space in the raddle. This wasn’t a big problem, and I certainly won’t make that mistake again!

Once that was done today, the lease sticks were put in. While checking, I found 4 cords at the cross, scattered across the warp, that had not been caught in the lease sticks. I do not know if this happened at the warping board, or if we missed those cords while inserting the lease sticks. They were put properly in place, and the drawcord warp was beamed this afternoon.


The Swedish method of beaming a drawcord warp includes rough sleying a reed before winding the warp on. I chose not to do that, but to simply do my usual back to front warping method. I did, however, run the warp straight down and under the footboard of the loom as done the Swedish way. Noah and Sarah held the warp sections while I wound the warp on and inserted a few warp sticks. I then cut the ends and tied off, as shown below, to keep the lease sticks in place.


Next, I believe I will be able to suspend the reed directly underneath the lease sticks, pick the threads from the cross, and sley the reed, one cord per dent, 8 cords of teal, leave a dent empty, 8 cords of terra cotta, leave a dent empty, and continue alternating colors across the reed.

Once the sleyed cords are secure, I will remove the raddle, then unwinding enough drawcord warp, move the reed and warp ends back across the loom, over the steel beam, and down, so I can pick threads from the first reed, to sley the second reed. The first reed will then be moved back to the top beam and secured there. After the 20/2 weaving warp is beamed, I will be able to tie the cords to the pattern heddles.

What is all this for? The single unit drawloom is a double harness loom. It has a front ground harness, in this case 10 shafts available, and a pattern harness, which on this loom consists of four rods/shafts on which the pattern heddles hang. The pattern heddles will be set up and hang as if they were a straight twill. Each pattern heddle has a maillon through which 1 to 8 threads are threaded and works as a unit.

The ground shafts will be most likely set up as a 5 shaft satin. A design will be graphed out, and the the cords of the drawcord warp are used to pull up units of threads to create the design.

I will try to do a better job explaining this as I work through the process of setting up this loom. It has been a long time since I’ve done this, and all I have to go on are memories, a few books, most in Swedish, the CW Double Harness Study Group, and a little creative thinking. My ideas may or may not work, but either way, I will learn from them.

I’ve been searching for 20/2 mercerized cotton, on cones, so far without success, so I’ll be continuing that search this evening. While waiting for the 20/2 cotton to arrive for the warp, weaving will continue for spring, summer, and autumn at the galleries and a couple art shows. Towels, runners, rugs, and bags, and more ideas keep coming. All that plus working on my studio and home. Each day is a challenge or an adventure, sometimes both.

Drawcord Warp, Prep for Beaming

The drawcord warp was finished two days ago, and made in four sections as I don’t overlap threads when making a warp. I placed a label on each section (Drawcord Warp 1, etc.). The warp was made in groups of eight threads, and alternating two colors, teal and terra cotta (my names for them). These colors were chosen first because they were colors I could live with, and second because they weren’t too dark to see against a wood ceiling and beams, during the day, anyway.
This warp has 400 “cords,” a lot to start with, but done on the advice of a respected weaver who wrote I should make the warp for as wide and as many cords and units I thought I might like to weave. Since I’d made 400 pattern heddles, I thought this was a good place to start. 400 or so will be the maximum, but I’ll start by using a lot less. Unused cords will be tied together and tied off to the side until needed. If a future project needs more, I’ll need to make a new warp.

Above, you can see the top beam which has groove in it. There is a rod to slip the warp sections onto, then the rod is set into this groove and tied into place on each end so there is no chance of it falling out when the ratchet is turned. The raddle is taped into place and the lease sticks will be behind the raddle. String, scissors, lease sticks, and the firsts of two reeds are standing by. Basically I will be warping “back to front,” only the direction I’m working is reversed, and working on the top front of the loom. As this is a short warp, it should not take long to wind on, then picking each cord from the cross, I’ll sley the first reed.

This is how I recall doing this process long ago when Ken Colwell drive to our home to show me how to do this, and how to tie the cords to the pattern heddles. Unfortunately, some details have faded from memory over the years, so I’ll simply be inventive when needed.

The reeds, both 12 dent, 42″ long, 4″ wide, stainless steel, arrived a couple days ago. I was a bit afraid the reed for the back might be a bit too long to slide into the holders, but it slid in fine. From what I understand, the second reed is threaded on top then moved back, but because of the length of the reed I ordered (the book shows a shorter reed there which would slide easily into the holders), I expect it will be threaded further back.

More pics and description will follow as I work through this process for the first time in close to 23 or so years. I am using the book “Damask and Opphamta” by Lillemor Johansson as well as the video (also available as DVD) “Dressing Your Swedish Drawloom” by Becky Ashenden. Both are very helpful in understanding this area of weaving.

I was again watching the video last night, looking to see if there was anything on beaming a drawcord warp on an older style single unit drawloom. Although Becky covers the new method with pre-cut cords, I did not see what I find what I was looking for right then. If I find it on this video or elsewhere, I will post about it. This is an excellent video/DVD and I highly recommend it. I know I’ll be watching and learning from it again and again.

For anyone interested in drawloom weaving, Complex Weavers has a Double Harness Study Group. You must be a member of Complex Weavers ($25/year which includes 3 journals per year, membership list, lending library, study groups, and more). The Double Harness Study Group is an additional $5 per year (at present) which includes 4 newsletters per year and the option of participating in a private yahoo group.

If anyone is interested, please contact me at jzindel@newnorth.net. You do not have to have a drawloom to join, just an interest in this type of weaving. For information on Complex Weavers, or to join, go to their website at: http://www.complex-weavers.org.

Drawcord Warp in Progress

The long-awaited drawcord warp is in progress. As you can see, the warp is being made on a warping board instead of a mill because I couldn’t do a short enough warp on the mill without excessive waste of materials and time. In “Damask and Opphamta” the suggested warp length is about 4.5 yds; I am making about six yards to allow for a little extra and in case of any wearing in future, I may be able to cut it back, advance the warp and re-tie back onto the pattern heddles.

I am using 12/6 seine twine in two colors to make pulling cords easier when working from a graphed design. I have two kinds of graph paper, sent by a friend, set up with four and eight squares per block, so I am making this drawcord warp 8 threads followed by a space, across the reed, and alternating the two colors, so the drawcords and graph paper will work together. There are other ways of setting this up this kind of warp, but I’m going to see how this works out.

I had planned to make this warp in two halves (because of the Texsolv cords running down from upper jacks to lamms, but as the pegs on the warping board fill up, it will likely be made in quarters instead, we’ll see.

Back to the warping board. Check in tomorrow. I am still working on exactly how we are going to beam this warp. Hopefully the reeds won’t take long to arrive.

Making Lemonade

Today was to be devoted to family, and over half was, then someone else changed plans without letting us know so most of the afternoon was wasted waiting for someone who wasn’t coming. So, time to turn those lemons into lemonade.

After returning home, I rearranged the looms again as I’d decided I didn’t like the new setup. The room felt too crowded with the drawloom sticking out into it, so now the looms are in a variation of the old way, with the addition of the rug loom.

The warping mill is set up, I’m adding my guide string now, and took time out to order the two needed reeds. Yes, I know I wrote awhile back that they were being ordered, but right about then my son lost his retainers, and $300 later, the reeds had to wait. No longer! Two reeds were ordered late this afternoon, both 12 dent, stainless steel, 42″ long and 4″ high. They will be shipped on Monday.

My looms are Glimakra, with horizontal jacks, so there is Texsolv cord running down the center of the loom from the upper jacks, down past the shafts to the two sets of lamms. As a result, all of my warps are made in two halves, which is better for warping as there is less angle when winding the warp onto the back beam.

Other news today,… I stopped by the art gallery at Nicolet Area Technical College which was in-between exhibits. I had missed an exhibit which included woven rugs by just a few days, but did get to wander around the upcoming student art exhibit which is not yet hung. The director was busy framing everything. We did chat, and she said if I would like to bring work out for her to look at for a possible exhibit, that would be fine. I’m thinking perhaps in a couple years some pieces from the drawloom? Meanwhile, she is working on their new brochure, and if I would like to have my info in it I can send it along to her, there may be room yet.

Now, back to the warping mill. I’ll be back tomorrow with a photo or two and details.

That Restless Feeling…

I should be in bed, asleep, but I’m feeling a bit restless tonight, so I’ve been doing a little studio cleanup. I have a cart that holds various pieces of weaving and spinning equipment that had gotten rather cluttered and dusty, so other items were put back where they belong (those drawers need cleaning out, too!), and it’s ready to use again. Shuttles organized, bobbins in baskets, a crock with threading hooks and other small tools, the long metal pins for the loom jacks, bobbin and ball winders, tapestry combs, tension box, wool combs and carders, all back in their places.

The notebooks of Complex Weavers Journals, Double Harness Study Group newsletters, books, and magazines, are all being re-filed. I’m trying to keep the remaining small pieces of the opphamta attachment together, as there are other baggies in drawers of bolts, screws, etc., and I have no clue what they go to. While cleaning those drawers out, things will be re-bagged and labeled, at least those that I am sure of. If I don’t know, what would my kids make of all this?

A week or two ago my son brought a table and legs upstairs, at my request, and we could not find the bolts for it anywhere, so back to the basement it went. Today, I found them in the back of a drawer (I had looked in it, just not deep enough), so that will finally be set up again and be used as my sewing table. It won’t be a fancy sewing/cutting area, as seen in the studio decorating magazines, but it will be serviceable which is what is needed right now. I’ll work on the decorating later, but only so much can be done with logs! I’m thinking handwoven valances and a long “rag” runner laying across the washer and dryer would be nice, and of course, rag rugs on the floor.


A few weeks ago, while in Minocqua, I stopped by an antique shop, just to browse around, not looking for anything in particular. Turning a corner, my eyes stopped on a pair of vintage white wool socks, handspun, handknit socks. They had been worn, washed, and what can I say, I had to give them a home. Right now, this plain, simple, functional pair of socks is hanging on a wall in my studio where I can admire them, and their maker, daily. Perhaps someday, someone will find and appreciate the work of my hands.

My bag is packed for tomorrow, socks needing toes closed (with needles and scissors), three issues of Weavers magazine with articles on drawloom weaving, my copy of “Damask and Opphamta,” and my copy of “The Crafts Report” that arrived in my mailbox today. All that and a couple of shops should keep me busy for the several hours I’ll be away. There is nothing like time on your hands in which to plot the next projects/warps.

Unexpected Challenges

My thanks to those of you who have visited Shuttle Works Studio blog, and/or left comments. Sometimes an unexpected challenge comes up in life, as one did this week, and creative work must be set aside temporarily. This week was one of those times for me while taking care of a family member. I will be back posting again very soon. Thinking of you all,…

Chasing Dreams

Do you ever fall behind, feel like you will never be caught up again, feel OVERWHELMED? That’s what I’m experiencing lately. The northwoods winter, which is usually neverending, suddenly IS ending. Between rain and snow showers, suddenly all I have done seems so small compared to what is left to do. The Task List grows daily until I don’t know where to start!

What I am feeling is the excitement of what I committed to this summer, and fear that I won’t be able to meet my self-imposed goals. I need to change my focus to what I am able to do each day, and what I will accomplish in the coming weeks.

What I need is an updated list of every last thing needing to be done (and projected completion dates) and then make a realistic list to work from each day. I do have a list and update it periodically, but with the coming time crunch, I’m going to need to make this a daily habit. Checking off each item as it is done brings satisfaction and gives me concrete evidence that I am, indeed, making progress.

It isn’t the weaving, I love sitting at the loom and watching the inches of fabric gliding under the breast beam and protective board, periodically measuring the piece to see how much is left to go, thinking ahead to the next piece, or project. Right now, it’s knowing a loom needs more work, warps, followed by threading. It’s those last 300 heddles waiting to be finished, finally reaching the goal of 4,000 (divided between two looms), and knowing 1,000 to 2,000 pattern heddles still need to be made. It’s the cones of sock yarns calling to me to sit down at the sock machine and crank for a few hours each day.


The spinning wheels are calling to me, as are bags of fleece waiting to be felted, like the Coopworth above. Why is it when we have goals to accomlish, work to be done, deadlines to be met, those siren calls of distraction call loudest? They are going to have to wait just a bit longer. I will resist, and take care of what needs to be done first.

Maybe my age has something to do with it? Oh, do we really have to go there? I’m slowing down physically, I know that, but in my head, I’m still relatively young, and still think I can do anything I set my mind to. And for the most part I can, I just keep forgetting it all takes longer! My love of fibers and textiles also keeps me from remembering that anything, anything involving fibers takes longer than I think it will. You would think I would have learned by now?

People always ask, “how long did it take to make that?” Sometimes I know. Twenty-five minutes per sock on the sock machine, each, then perhaps 20 minutes each to close toes. If they are asking about a piece of weaving, well, I tend not to keep track of those hours. I am slowly learning to be more efficient in what I do, but as I do one-of-a-kind pieces, from the same warp, not long production runs of the same exact piece, over and over, I fall somewhere in-between.

Tomorrow I will begin again, with a current priority list next to my open calendar, and see how much can be done, and done well. Chasing my dreams.

One Step Closer

I am smiling in WI today! A woodworker arranged to drop by today to look at my Glimakra CM loom and the opphamta attachment that I need trimmed down to fit my loom. My loom is 48″ and the opphamta attachment is for a 54″ loom. Yes, I bought it knowing full well it would need to be made to fit. I had been looking for one for a long time, this was the first one that crossed my path and I bought it.

I expect the pattern shafts and long metal rods will need trimming, too, but that won’t happen until these first pieces fit. Everything in good time, one step at a time. I’ve waited four years for this, and will likely wait longer, I have weaving to finish up and an order to take care of before I can even think of assembling the rest of it. It’s just very nice knowing I’m a little closer to making it a reality.

As of last night, I have 1,400 more long-eye heddles made, and 300 more cut and ready to be tied; these are for the opphamta attachment ground shafts. 300 more to reach 2,000. Then I will begin on the pattern heddles.

Now, the Damask Weavers Newsletter arrived in my Inbox so I need to read that. Then I need to re-sley my reed (we had to remove the beater to try the top part of the opphata attachment on the loom) and lash the warp back on. I may wait a couple days as I don’t want to have to cut a partly woven piece off when he returns and wants to see if the pieces will fit. There is sock-cranking to do, a drawcord warp to be made, a rug loom waiting for me, one or two other looms that need warps, a spinning wheel that has been sadly neglected, and I’m itching to do some felting. So, stay with my priorities? Or take a day to play?

Yesterday and today I was again working on the Complex Weavers Double Harness Study Group newsletter, and it is at last finished, though too late to be mailed out today. They will be at the post office in the morning, along with two pairs of socks.

The weaving on another towel was finished while pages were printing on the inkjet printer today. It was a good time for a bit of multi-tasking. The towel was washed, dried, pressed, and tonight was hemmed and photographed. There is still warp on the loom so I’ll go to sleep thinking about another variation to try.

The Lake Country Weavers met this past Monday at Manitowish River Studio (and home) of weaver Mary Burns. Mary weaves custom rugs on a 10′ Cranbrook set up for shaft switching, and on a 12′ AVL compu-dobby. A 7′ x 11′ rug had been started for a client, and when that one is nearly done she will be warping the larger loom for a 10′ x 12′ rug for the same client. All are her original designs, many inspired by the Arts and Crafts look.

Mary also has a TC-1 Jacquard loom, some of her woven pieces come from photos. Amazing! That loom is warped with 20/2 cotton, and each thread is individually controlled. Monday night we saw a slide show from a recent workshop she attended of jacquard weavers. She has an amazing studio, and is a wonderful, sharing weaver. http://www.manitowishriverstudio.us/.

Studio Life of a Weaver, Spinner, Dyer